From Elsa Schiaparelli's Legacy to Daniel Roseberry Vison: the Icare Collection and the Art of Haute Couture

About the Latest Couture Show

Kicking off Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025, Schiaparelli has set an exceptionally high bar for its competitors to surpass or even match. The brand’s new collection, named after the mythological bird Icare, can be considered as a continuation of its 2024 Phoenix collection, which also drew inspiration from a mythological bird creature.

At the heart of this new collection, we can find: corsets, intricate embroidery, dramatic volumes, and historical influences. These elements showcase Schiaparelli’s dedication to art and craftsmanship in an industry where volatile trends are taking over. Creative director Daniel Roseberry (1985) shared that he embraced the challenge of creating designs with an antique aesthetic. Instead of beginning with silhouettes, Roseberry started by envisioning the colors he would use. His creative and innovative journey led him to an antique shop, where he found the inspiration to craft a collection reminiscent of the 1920s and 1930s era.

The show’s impact has been one of the most significant in the brand’s history, driven not only by the highly detailed designs but also by the models who showcased them and the attendees who were present at the show. The press has been eager to discuss every aspect of the event and its many standout moment

We would like to highlight Alex Consani’s feather coat ensemble, Kendall Jenner’s walk and outfit, as well as the daring silhouettes and dramatically snatched waists that pushed boundaries and shocked the audience.

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About Elsa Schiaparelli: The Founder and the Mind

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was an Italian fashion designer whose bold, imaginative creations redefined couture in the early 20th century. Born in Rome to a wealthy and intellectual family, Schiaparelli showed an early interest in art and culture. However, it wasn’t until she moved to Paris in the 1920s that her fashion career began to take shape.

Schiaparelli’s designs were groundbreaking, blending art and fashion in ways that had never been done before. It was in 1927 when Elsa founded Maison Schiaparelli. She was heavily influenced by Surrealism and collaborated with iconic artists like Salvador Dalí (1940-1989) and Jean Cocteau (1889-1963). These partnerships led to some of her most famous works, including the Lobster Dress (1937), a silk gown adorned with a bold lobster design painted by Dalí. She also introduced the world to “Shocking Pink,” a vibrant, electric color that became her signature and a lasting symbol of her daring and innovative style.

Schiaparelli also revolutionized couture with her practical innovations, such as using zippers as a decorative element and designing clothing that was both playful and functional. She popularized trompe-l'œil patterns and accessories like her iconic shoe hat, which captured her love for whimsy and surprise.

Another key figure in 1930s fashion, was Coco Chanel’s (1883-1971) Schiaparelli's main rival. While Chanel embraced simplicity and minimalism, Schiaparelli leaned into fantasy, theatricality, and humor. This rivalry highlighted the stark contrast between two visions of femininity and fashion, with Schiaparelli representing fearless creativity and bold self-expression.

After World War II, changing tastes led to the closure of her couture house in 1954. However, her legacy endures. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008), John Galliano (1960), and Christian Lacroix (1951) have drawn inspiration from her work. Elsa Schiaparelli’s impact on fashion is undeniable. Her bold designs, artistic collaborations, and rivalry with Chanel cemented her as a trailblazer who dared to dream beyond convention, leaving an indelible mark on the world of couture.

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About the Brand in the Current Days

After Elsa Schiaparelli's death in 1973, the brand went on hiatus until 2012, when its direction decided to revive it under the ownership of Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle (1953), chairman of Tod's Group. Della Valle acquired the brand in 2007, committing to bringing Maison Schiaparelli back into the spotlight while preserving its artistic and cultural legacy. The vision was clear: the brand could not escape away from Elsa’s work and legacy but needed to adapt to the demands of the modern market and fashion industry. With a great balance between haute couture and ready-to-wear collections, the brand has made its way onto red carpets, dressing pop icons such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Kim Kardashian.

Since 2019 Maison Schiaparelli is guided by the artistic direction of Daniel Roseberry, whose creativity aligns seamlessly with the founder's visionary approach to fashion innovation and the celebration of women. As the Maison proudly states, 'Today, Maison Schiaparelli honors this extraordinary heritage, offering 21st-century women a bold style imbued with timeless allure.'

In recent years, the brand has made a visible dedicated effort to reintroduce haute couture and the iconic shows that once defined its legacy. These shows place art at the center stage, emphasizing craftsmanship and creativity over prêt-à-porter collections and the short-term trends that have come to dominate the industry.